A stylist's guide from Reverie Salon in River North, Chicago.
The internet will tell you every oil is a miracle. Coconut oil, argan oil, castor oil, rosemary oil — they all get their turn as the “one thing that changed everything.” The reality is more nuanced than any TikTok video can cover.
Here’s what I actually recommend to clients after 20+ years of seeing what works.
Argan oil: the all-rounder
If you’re only going to use one oil, this is probably it. Lightweight, absorbs quickly, works on most hair types without weighing them down. It’s rich in vitamin E and fatty acids that smooth the cuticle and add shine without greasiness.
Best for: fine to medium hair, daily use, pre-styling protection. Davines OI Oil uses roucou oil rather than pure argan, but it hits the same notes — lightweight, protective, and it smells incredible. It’s the oil we recommend most at Reverie.
Coconut oil: proceed with caution
Here’s where I diverge from the internet consensus. Coconut oil is the only oil that actually penetrates the hair shaft (most just coat the surface). That can be great for porous, damaged hair that needs deep conditioning. But on fine or low-porosity hair, it sits on the surface, makes hair heavy and limp, and is surprisingly hard to wash out.
If coconut oil makes your hair feel greasy no matter how little you use — your hair probably doesn’t need it. Don’t force it because someone on Instagram said it’s magic.
Jojoba oil: the scalp specialist
Jojoba is technically a liquid wax, not an oil. Its molecular structure is remarkably similar to your scalp’s natural sebum, which means it can help regulate oil production. Oily scalp? Counterintuitively, jojoba can help balance it. Dry scalp? It adds lubrication without clogging follicles.
I recommend it primarily for scalp massage and overnight treatments, not as a styling product.
Castor oil: overhyped but not useless
The claim: castor oil makes your hair grow faster. The reality: there’s no scientific evidence for this. What castor oil does do is coat the hair shaft thickly, which makes hair look temporarily shinier and fuller. It can also help with dry scalp conditions.
The problem is it’s extremely thick and sticky. Using it on your lengths is a mess to wash out. If you want to try it, use it sparingly on the scalp only, and mix it with a lighter carrier oil.
Rosemary oil: the one with actual science
This is the dark horse. A 2015 study compared rosemary oil to minoxidil (the active ingredient in Rogaine) for hair growth and found similar results at 6 months. It’s a small study, but it’s one of the only essential oils with genuine clinical evidence behind it.
Use it diluted — a few drops in a carrier oil, massaged into the scalp 2–3 times per week. Don’t put undiluted essential oil directly on your skin.
How we use oils at Reverie
In the salon, Davines OI Oil is our workhorse — pre-blowout protection, mid-length and end treatment, finishing touch for shine. It’s lightweight enough for fine hair and nourishing enough for thick hair. That versatility is rare.
For scalp-specific concerns, we incorporate oils into our Naturaltech treatments based on what each client’s scalp needs.
The bottom line
No oil is universal. What works for your friend’s thick, curly hair might wreck your fine, straight hair. Start with a small amount, see how your hair responds, and adjust from there.
Or skip the guesswork — come to Reverie and let us tell you what your hair actually needs.
Scalp and hair treatments in Chicago
Reverie Salon is in River North, Chicago, rated 4.8★ on Google. If your scalp is the actual problem — flaking, oiliness, tightness, shedding you've noticed — an oil off a shelf is guesswork. Our hair and scalp therapy head spa starts by looking at the scalp itself, and appointments can be booked here. Browse the scalp care and Naturaltech ranges if you'd rather start at home.
Not in Chicago? The one rule that travels: patch a new oil on your mid-lengths for a week before you ever put it on your scalp.
