Dermaplaning is the treatment clients ask about with the most skepticism — "you're going to shave my face?" — and leave loving the most. Here's what it actually is, what it does and doesn't do, and the honest list of who should skip it.
What it is
Dermaplaning is a physical exfoliation: a licensed esthetician uses a sterile, surgical-grade blade at a precise angle to remove the outermost layer of dead skin cells and the fine vellus hair ("peach fuzz") from the face. It's painless — most clients say it feels like a gentle scraping — and takes about 30–45 minutes as a standalone or adds on to any facial.
What it actually does
Instant smoothness and glow. Removing the dead-cell layer means light reflects evenly off your skin again. The effect is visible the same day.
Makeup applies dramatically better. No fuzz, no flaky patches — foundation sits like a filter. This is why it's a favorite before weddings and photoshoots.
Your skincare absorbs better. Actives reach living skin instead of sitting on buildup.
The myths, handled
"The hair grows back thicker." No. Vellus hair is structurally different from terminal (body) hair, and cutting it doesn't change its thickness, color, or growth rate. It grows back exactly as it was, usually in 3–4 weeks. This is the most persistent myth in esthetics and it's simply not how hair biology works.
"It's the same as shaving at home." The drugstore razor versions exfoliate far less, and doing it without training risks nicks and irritation. The professional version uses a different blade, a different angle, and prepped skin.
Who should skip it
Dermaplaning isn't for everyone, and a good esthetician will tell you so: active breakouts or cystic acne (the blade can spread bacteria and irritate lesions), very reactive or inflamed skin (rosacea flares, eczema, sunburn), or skin on strong prescription retinoids or recent isotretinoin without clearance. If that's you, a gentle enzymatic treatment gets you a similar glow without the blade — Elizabeth will steer you right at the consultation.
Aftercare
Freshly dermaplaned skin is more sun-sensitive — SPF every morning is non-negotiable for the following week (it should be anyway). Skip strong acids and retinoids for a couple of days, then enjoy the fact that everything you apply works better.
At Reverie
Dermaplaning is performed by Elizabeth, our licensed esthetician, at our River North studio — from $130 standalone, or from $25 as an add-on to any facial. It pairs beautifully with the Signature Facial, and you can book it alongside your hair appointment.
